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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2021 10:50 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
What kind of asshole doesn't carry capacitors on him? Ive got probably close to 100 different ones on my truck right now.

What is a capacitor?

Picture a Boulder on the peak of a hill. The Boulder is the motor. Gravity is the voltage.

You apply gravity (voltage) to the Boulder (the motor). Nothing happens. The Boulder sits on the top of the hill.

Give the Boulder a shove. The shove is a start capacitor. Now gravity (voltage) takes over and the Boulder (motor) runs down the hill.

Some motors need a run capacitor to achieve proper rpms. But that doesn't fit the Boulder analogy so fuck you.


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 6:28 am 
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This Ends in Antioch wrote:
What’s the going rate for swapping out a capacitor?

How close a friend is he?

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 9:24 am 
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Darkside wrote:
This Ends in Antioch wrote:
What’s the going rate for swapping out a capacitor?

How close a friend is he?

We just met yesterday, so I’d say we’re still in the honeymoon phase.

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 9:50 am 
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This Ends in Antioch wrote:
The Division wrote:
This Ends in Antioch wrote:
The Division wrote:
Darkside wrote:
This Ends in Antioch wrote:
Two AC units...one seems to have shit the bed. On one, the fan isn’t spinning and the guidance is it’s the capacitor, the motor or the entire unit.

Capacitor is pretty rusted and the unit’s 14yrs old. Curious whether I’m missing something or if I should just be grateful I haven’t had to replace it sooner and bite the bullet.

14 years old? It should have some life left in it.
Do you have an electrical meter at all?
You can sometimes visually confirm blown capacitors by looking at them. They swell up like a coke in the freezer sometimes.


Doesn’t the capacitor provide energy to turn the compressor on or does it do more? I replaced my capacitor a couple years ago. Fan was turning but no compressor power. Maybe TEIA has something other than a capacitor issue.

Our big picture issue is the fan isn’t working. So the hvac guy thinks we have to address whether power is flowing to the motor, or whether the motor itself is shot. Hence the capacitor check.

After using the voltage meter his read was that the capacitor is shot. This is one of those areas I defer to people who know much more than I do/ever will.


That’s a quick and easy fix. Glad that’s all it was.

Well I hope so. Still kinda tbd as he didn’t have a capacitor on him and we’ll see tomorrow if that’ll fix the issue. He’s cautioning that even if that gets the motor running, I guarantees that the motor isn’t going to crap out in the short term.

Fingers crossed...


Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2021 9:53 am 
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This Ends in Antioch wrote:
Darkside wrote:
This Ends in Antioch wrote:
What’s the going rate for swapping out a capacitor?

How close a friend is he?

We just met yesterday, so I’d say we’re still in the honeymoon phase.

With a service fee about 200 bucks.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 8:59 pm 
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Mr. Darko - Our central AC (outside) is running but the blower (in the furnace) is not...thus pretty much no cold air is coming into our home. There was also water on the floor around the furnace. I checked the condensate drain and it was full of water so I cleaned that out. I don’t see a float valve however. Are these factors related? If not am I left with bad motor, bad capacitor or bad circuit board? Assuming I need to call someone do you have a recommendation in the SW burbs? (Note: Armstrong Ultra SX 90) Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:50 pm 
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Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Mr. Darko - Our central AC (outside) is running but the blower (in the furnace) is not...thus pretty much no cold air is coming into our home. There was also water on the floor around the furnace. I checked the condensate drain and it was full of water so I cleaned that out. I don’t see a float valve however. Are these factors related? If not am I left with bad motor, bad capacitor or bad circuit board? Assuming I need to call someone do you have a recommendation in the SW burbs? (Note: Armstrong Ultra SX 90) Thanks in advance.

So the outdoor unit is running but the blower is not.
That certainly sounds like a blower motor issue.
Why isn't the blower motor running?
Well, some of the older Armstrong units needed a signal at G from the thermostat to turn on the blower during coming cycles.
Do you have a multimeter?
Feel free to pm me for troubleshooting. I'll give you a number to text.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:00 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Mr. Darko - Our central AC (outside) is running but the blower (in the furnace) is not...thus pretty much no cold air is coming into our home. There was also water on the floor around the furnace. I checked the condensate drain and it was full of water so I cleaned that out. I don’t see a float valve however. Are these factors related? If not am I left with bad motor, bad capacitor or bad circuit board? Assuming I need to call someone do you have a recommendation in the SW burbs? (Note: Armstrong Ultra SX 90) Thanks in advance.

So the outdoor unit is running but the blower is not.
That certainly sounds like a blower motor issue.
Why isn't the blower motor running?
Well, some of the older Armstrong units needed a signal at G from the thermostat to turn on the blower during coming cycles.
Do you have a multimeter?
Feel free to pm me for troubleshooting. I'll give you a number to text.

Thanks. Yes I do have a multimeter. I was thinking about sending power directly to the blower motor to see if that is the problem. Is that a no-no?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 8:45 am 
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just start pushing in contactors and see what happens

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 9:16 am 
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Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Darkside wrote:
Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Mr. Darko - Our central AC (outside) is running but the blower (in the furnace) is not...thus pretty much no cold air is coming into our home. There was also water on the floor around the furnace. I checked the condensate drain and it was full of water so I cleaned that out. I don’t see a float valve however. Are these factors related? If not am I left with bad motor, bad capacitor or bad circuit board? Assuming I need to call someone do you have a recommendation in the SW burbs? (Note: Armstrong Ultra SX 90) Thanks in advance.

So the outdoor unit is running but the blower is not.
That certainly sounds like a blower motor issue.
Why isn't the blower motor running?
Well, some of the older Armstrong units needed a signal at G from the thermostat to turn on the blower during coming cycles.
Do you have a multimeter?
Feel free to pm me for troubleshooting. I'll give you a number to text.

Thanks. Yes I do have a multimeter. I was thinking about sending power directly to the blower motor to see if that is the problem. Is that a no-no?

Yeah you can do that. Take the black lead off the board and wire nut it in with the power coming from the door switch to the L1 terminal on the board.
But also check the capacitor and see that it's not weak or blown first.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 10:22 am 
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Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 11:23 am 
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K Effective wrote:
Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.

Water trapped in the condensate line wouldn't shut down the blower unless there is a float switch or similar blocked drain safety but those almost always break Y (in some cases it breaks R) in which case the condenser shuts off. In rare cases, a blocked drain may cause water to spill over the evaporator pan and onto a motor or control board causing the motor to stop running.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 2:37 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
K Effective wrote:
Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.

Water trapped in the condensate line wouldn't shut down the blower unless there is a float switch or similar blocked drain safety but those almost always break Y (in some cases it breaks R) in which case the condenser shuts off. In rare cases, a blocked drain may cause water to spill over the evaporator pan and onto a motor or control board causing the motor to stop running.

Thanks to you both. So here’s the latest. I direct powered the blower and it worked. However, when I did that the AC shut off. When I reconnected the wires the AC kicked on and the blower shut off again. If I could have kept both running I could have at least manually operated the system to cool the main floor. Now I’m flummoxed. I’ve supposedly got a tech coming out but have yet to get a call with a time frame. This isn’t how I wanted to spend my day off.

Edit: so after thinking about it, what if I jumper the blower and the board?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 2:53 pm 
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Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Darkside wrote:
K Effective wrote:
Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.

Water trapped in the condensate line wouldn't shut down the blower unless there is a float switch or similar blocked drain safety but those almost always break Y (in some cases it breaks R) in which case the condenser shuts off. In rare cases, a blocked drain may cause water to spill over the evaporator pan and onto a motor or control board causing the motor to stop running.

Thanks to you both. So here’s the latest. I direct powered the blower and it worked. However, when I did that the AC shut off. When I reconnected the wires the AC kicked on and the blower shut off again. If I could have kept both running I could have at least manually operated the system to cool the main floor. Now I’m flummoxed. I’ve supposedly got a tech coming out but have yet to get a call with a time frame. This isn’t how I wanted to spend my day off.

Edit: so after thinking about it, what if I jumper the blower and the board?

Here's a dumb question. When you direct powered the blower did you still have power going to the furnace circuit board so the transformer and thus the low voltage control side was still powered?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 2:56 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Darkside wrote:
K Effective wrote:
Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.

Water trapped in the condensate line wouldn't shut down the blower unless there is a float switch or similar blocked drain safety but those almost always break Y (in some cases it breaks R) in which case the condenser shuts off. In rare cases, a blocked drain may cause water to spill over the evaporator pan and onto a motor or control board causing the motor to stop running.

Thanks to you both. So here’s the latest. I direct powered the blower and it worked. However, when I did that the AC shut off. When I reconnected the wires the AC kicked on and the blower shut off again. If I could have kept both running I could have at least manually operated the system to cool the main floor. Now I’m flummoxed. I’ve supposedly got a tech coming out but have yet to get a call with a time frame. This isn’t how I wanted to spend my day off.

Edit: so after thinking about it, what if I jumper the blower and the board?

Here's a dumb question. When you direct powered the blower did you still have power going to the furnace circuit board so the transformer and thus the low voltage control side was still powered?

Rereading your post it seems when you direct powered the blower, you didn't power the board.
If the board isn't powered the ac won't come on because the thermostats low voltage control power comes from a transformer generally wired into the board.
Sounds like you have a bad board.
You can direct power the black line from the motor to incoming power from the door switch but you have to wire nut it in a 3 way connection to also allow power to the board to make the condenser and thermostat work.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 3:00 pm 
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Blower Black lead-------
|
Door switch--‐--------------
|
Board L1------‐---‐----‐------


Don't electrocute yourself. You make these connections with the power switch or furnace breaker off.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 3:05 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
Blower Black lead-------
|
Door switch--‐--------------
|
Board L1------‐---‐----‐------


Don't electrocute yourself. You make these connections with the power switch or furnace breaker off.

Makes sense. Thanks and yes I’ll shut the power off. Much appreciated!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 3:05 pm 
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I'm home today so if you want to call me and go over this pm me.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 3:07 pm 
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Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Darkside wrote:
Blower Black lead-------
|
Door switch--‐--------------
|
Board L1------‐---‐----‐------


Don't electrocute yourself. You make these connections with the power switch or furnace breaker off.

Makes sense. Thanks and yes I’ll shut the power off. Much appreciated!

Awesome. If this works and you don't mind the fan being on you can replace the board at your leisure. It needs to be done, most likely, before heating season. If you're feeling froggy, you can replace this board for probably $120 max yourself. Probably 400 to 500 for a pro.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 3:45 pm 
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Incidently I think you can replace this board with a Honeywell universal ST9120U.
They run between 70 to 100 at a supply house or maybe grainger. I have a business account at Harry Alter supply house if there's one near you.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 4:23 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
Incidently I think you can replace this board with a Honeywell universal ST9120U.
They run between 70 to 100 at a supply house or maybe grainger. I have a business account at Harry Alter supply house if there's one near you.

I really appreciate your help on this. If I had more time to work on it I would definitely attempt to install a new board but we’re heading out on vacation on Wednesday and I don’t want to take any chances so I’ve got a “pro” looking at it right now. So far it seems like you are right on the money but he can’t do a new board until tomorrow. Thus doing a “3-way” temporarily. With your help I could have gotten to that point but I still feel better having him replace the board.

On a side note: he’s calling somebody for input on how to do this part. Maybe I should have put him in touch with you :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 4:35 pm 
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Zippy-The-Pinhead wrote:
Darkside wrote:
Incidently I think you can replace this board with a Honeywell universal ST9120U.
They run between 70 to 100 at a supply house or maybe grainger. I have a business account at Harry Alter supply house if there's one near you.

I really appreciate your help on this. If I had more time to work on it I would definitely attempt to install a new board but we’re heading out on vacation on Wednesday and I don’t want to take any chances so I’ve got a “pro” looking at it right now. So far it seems like you are right on the money but he can’t do a new board until tomorrow. Thus doing a “3-way” temporarily. With your help I could have gotten to that point but I still feel better having him replace the board.

On a side note: he’s calling somebody for input on how to do this part. Maybe I should have put him in touch with you :D

:lol: I've already got my guys calling me today for help so what could another call hurt. :lol:
I'm not shocked that they sent out a rookie. It's a holiday so the experienced guys aren't taking calls. They're gonna beat up on the kids.
Anyhoodles if you ever need me let me know. Stay cool tonight.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 9:14 pm 
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Pfffft. Wire it without power on, bullshit. That's why there is a breaker on the furnace circuit. Not only wire it with the power on, but stick your bare foot in the sump pit water while you are wiring it! That's how the pros do it!!!



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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 10:21 pm 
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RFDC wrote:
newper wrote:
Any suggestions for the Ratt problem I have in the attic?

Invite them down for a beer

Image

RFDC writes for Geico?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 10:31 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
K Effective wrote:
Zippy- you may need an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow the spider nest out of your condensate drain. I'm certainly deferring to the expert DS here, but my experience was a wasp up in the condensate drain line that caused the purge air blower to trip out and shut the whole thing down. Yes, this was heat mode and not AC mode, but it may be similar if you still have water in the drain line. at least Monday you should be able to get some help at a reasonable price.

Water trapped in the condensate line wouldn't shut down the blower unless there is a float switch or similar blocked drain safety but those almost always break Y (in some cases it breaks R) in which case the condenser shuts off. In rare cases, a blocked drain may cause water to spill over the evaporator pan and onto a motor or control board causing the motor to stop running.

So for the record, the water I saw was (apparently) a result of the coils freezing up since the blower wasn’t operating. When I shut the whole thing down it thawed and thus...lots of water.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:30 am 
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So a few weeks ago i accepted a bid to encapsulate my crawlspace from Family Waterproofing in Oak Lawn. They had recently replaced my sump pump and I kinda randomly asked the tech how much it would be to do the encapsulation and he said he'd ask the office to get me a quote
They emailed me a bid which was 2600, and i accepted and paid the down payment , i thought it was going to be a lot more and even made a comment to that effect
The tech shows up today (after i take a day off work since people are going to be in my house and bedroom) and basically tells me he doesn't have enough material to do it and he expected it to be a much smaller crawl (I have 3 bedroom ranch...)
So bottom line it sounds like the sales guy screwed up in the quote, the tech told me it should have been 3x as much. Eventually he says they'll do it for 5300 which includes a 'discount' , i told him to go home.
Do i have any recourse if they refuse to honor a bid ? does bid = contract ?
Im also shocked they never called me directly, the tech was the one telling me all this
I just want to be careful before i respond to them since im so pissed


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:43 am 
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Bagels wrote:
So a few weeks ago i accepted a bid to encapsulate my crawlspace from Family Waterproofing in Oak Lawn. They had recently replaced my sump pump and I kinda randomly asked the tech how much it would be to do the encapsulation and he said he'd ask the office to get me a quote
They emailed me a bid which was 2600, and i accepted and paid the down payment , i thought it was going to be a lot more and even made a comment to that effect
The tech shows up today (after i take a day off work since people are going to be in my house and bedroom) and basically tells me he doesn't have enough material to do it and he expected it to be a much smaller crawl (I have 3 bedroom ranch...)
So bottom line it sounds like the sales guy screwed up in the quote, the tech told me it should have been 3x as much. Eventually he says they'll do it for 5300 which includes a 'discount' , i told him to go home.
Do i have any recourse if they refuse to honor a bid ? does bid = contract ?
Im also shocked they never called me directly, the tech was the one telling me all this
I just want to be careful before i respond to them since im so pissed


if they didn't do the work i would just say your going to have to show up at their shop to get your money back. I suppose you can try to force them to honor the quote but they can just tell you no as long as they return your deposit. might be worth pricing out the work with other vendors... because swallowing your pride and accepting a higher price from these dopes might be the cheapest for you


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:49 am 
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yes im sure the most likely outcome is they aren't doing it, and it really should have cost more
But i have a pdf quote with pics of the crawl along with a drawing with a legend showing the shaded area is 'encapsulated area', which is the entire area . It's pretty clear. I guess i'm saying are there no consequences for not honoring a contract ? i guess not, it sucks
i wasn't trying to scam anyone, i don't know how much that shit costs. I work in a diesel fuel shop, i wouldn't expect this guy to know how much a Cummins fuel pump costs to rebuild. I just expect if i agree to a job at a price that the job gets done


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 10:56 am 
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Going back through this thread, I see a lot of AC talk. While I can do automotive AC work, home AC is a different story. I get the concept is the same, but I lack the diagnostic tools and truth be told, I'd do something wrong and light up like a Christmas tree...

With that said, the Central Air unit at the other house crapped out last spring. I took it apart as best I could and cleaned it out then, thinking that it was an ancient unit, probably just dirty... But nothing... So not sure whether it's out of refrigerant or what? Mind you, this thing is old (I think installed around 1980), so yea, I know it's probably using baby seal killing R-12 and that getting that, I need to back up a Brinks truck, but not really wanting to invest a ton in a house I'm just gonna flip eventually. I've gotten by last summer and so far this summer, using a window unit.

Anyone do house calls??

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2021 11:04 am 
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Bagels wrote:
So a few weeks ago i accepted a bid to encapsulate my crawlspace from Family Waterproofing in Oak Lawn. They had recently replaced my sump pump and I kinda randomly asked the tech how much it would be to do the encapsulation and he said he'd ask the office to get me a quote
They emailed me a bid which was 2600, and i accepted and paid the down payment , i thought it was going to be a lot more and even made a comment to that effect
The tech shows up today (after i take a day off work since people are going to be in my house and bedroom) and basically tells me he doesn't have enough material to do it and he expected it to be a much smaller crawl (I have 3 bedroom ranch...)
So bottom line it sounds like the sales guy screwed up in the quote, the tech told me it should have been 3x as much. Eventually he says they'll do it for 5300 which includes a 'discount' , i told him to go home.
Do i have any recourse if they refuse to honor a bid ? does bid = contract ?
Im also shocked they never called me directly, the tech was the one telling me all this
I just want to be careful before i respond to them since im so pissed
Sounds like this tech needs to work on HIM SELF!

Go Tankless!

MOVE!


I think that about covers it, yeah?
Good luck. I think you're gonna need it. That's pretty shitty

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