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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2023 2:11 pm 
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HawaiiYou wrote:
Juiced wrote:
IkeSouth wrote:
HawaiiYou wrote:

Is this an easy DIY or need an electrician to do this?


you cant fuck it up. the two pins on one end of your light fixture socket wires directly to the two power wires from the ceiling box. everything else is cut off and discarded. direct wire led bulbs run on 120v or whatever you got up there.


Don't forget to tell him to turn off the circuit breaker to the light fixture he is replacing. :lol:


Thanks - i was going to ask if i need to turn off the electricity.



There are approximately 500-1,000 deaths from electrical injuries in the United States every year. Nearly 3-5% of both fatal and non-fatal admissions to burn units every year are a result of electrical injuries.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2023 2:49 pm 
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Juiced wrote:
HawaiiYou wrote:
Juiced wrote:
IkeSouth wrote:
HawaiiYou wrote:

Is this an easy DIY or need an electrician to do this?


you cant fuck it up. the two pins on one end of your light fixture socket wires directly to the two power wires from the ceiling box. everything else is cut off and discarded. direct wire led bulbs run on 120v or whatever you got up there.


Don't forget to tell him to turn off the circuit breaker to the light fixture he is replacing. :lol:


Thanks - i was going to ask if i need to turn off the electricity.



There are approximately 500-1,000 deaths from electrical injuries in the United States every year. Nearly 3-5% of both fatal and non-fatal admissions to burn units every year are a result of electrical injuries.


Ban electricity


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2023 3:39 pm 
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Just use a solar fixture, Hawaii.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2023 4:37 pm 
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IkeSouth wrote:
HawaiiYou wrote:
I dont know if Darko will be back posting here but maybe you guys can help.

I got florescent light bulbs that went out. One end got black. Like the top one in this pic :

Image


So anyway I got some new ones and replaced them. They worked like for 2 days then no longer working. I looked and one of the new ones at the end was getting black already. It's brand new.

What is causing this? Can someone help?


bad connections or ballast shorting out. replace with direct wire LED's (remove the ballast). CFL's are absolutely useless these days.


IKE! you're the man!

I just had the guy come out and replace with LED's. It took him like 15 min to do them all. He said they didnt need the ballast thing and he didnt need to turn off the electricity.

From now on, any house updates you're the go to guy!


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2023 4:56 pm 
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Thank you again to Darko and Ike on pages 20 and 21 for their help answering questions about my AC unit/specifically about leaking coils in the attic a couple years back.

I haven't had a checkup since today. Same company came out. As soon as the technician greeted me, I told him that I'm aware of the leaking coils in the attic and that he'll probably have to add some refrigerant before he leaves. After looking at the unit and then the attic, the technician tells me everything is "pretty bad." He suggested (like the guy that came 2 years ago) I fix and replace the leaking coils or buy an entire new unit. I told him while I respected his opinion and judgement, I'm not going to do either option as I'm going to ride it out. I asked about refrigerant cost. $470 for 4 pounds. He then started to say it might be a "legal issue" if he puts in the refrigerant while ignoring/doing nothing about the leaking coils. He said he could lose his certification or the company mights lose its license. He mentioned things would be bad if something happened to me. Blah blah blah.

I told him confidently the same company has added refrigerant before knowing there was a leak and the conversation was much different than the one we're having today. There's nothing wrong with breathing in 410a and I feel like you're trying to scare me. "No, no, no, I wouldn't do that. We're just trying to help." I asked him why refrigerant exists. You're supposed to use the stuff if there's a leak and the unit is older. Why else would you have refrigerant in your truck. Your company bought it to use it. He finally said he could add refrigerant and ignore the leak if it was put in the notes that I understand it's a "temporary solution" and their suggestion would be to fix and replace the coils.

I had enough and asked him to schedule a time next week to come out and add refrigerant. I'm going to weigh all options because I'm tired and confused after all this talking. Unbelievable experience.

*It's important to note, my air conditioner works fine, it works great actually. Could there be a little more insulation around the house and are there hot and cold spots, sure, but the thing is still powerful in the dog days of a Phoenix summer.


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2023 6:32 pm 
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Don't let them keep charging the unit every summer, have them put a sealant into the system to stop the leak..then charge it. They don't need to hit you up for 300$ every summer.

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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2023 7:56 pm 
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312player wrote:
Don't let them keep charging the unit every summer, have them put a sealant into the system to stop the leak..then charge it. They don't need to hit you up for 300$ every summer.

This isn't great advice. Leak seal is maybe OK to get you through one summer... maaaaaaaybe. Leak seal does fucked up things to metering devices, seals, valves and oil. I've seen maybe a 5 to 10% success rate with it. And once that shit is in there you can't use it again. The only scenario I'm using that stuff is if it comes with dye marker and I can pinpoint a Leak (which I can do with my IR camera and or IR sniffer) and it's in a repairable location.
That being said...
I used Leak seal at Doug's condo and it worked. It was one of the very few success stories I have. His system took half a pound a year before I put in the seal. Anything more than that and it won't work imho.

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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2023 7:57 pm 
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He already knows his system is shot and he needs a new unit.

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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2023 8:26 pm 
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I will say that a tech talking about losing certification for recharging is an asshole. TECHNICALLY possible... a system eating a pound a year requires repair per epa but I've never once seen that enforced in any way. That was a scare tactic and it was some bullshit. But those numbers I saw from a couple years ago... I reviewed them... looks to me like an overcharged system with a bad metering device... sorry of I'm repeating myself... but that high subcooling high superheat doesn't say undercharged to me.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 7:38 pm 
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Ive got one for you. My A/C has always kind of done a shitty job of keeping when I do use it which is not all that often. It works but it seems to take a while. Regardless....it worked. It no longer works. I have done some of the basic stuff. I gave it a rinse as it was pretty dirty, i checked and replaced the capacitor as the herm side was about 30 percent low. I have the new one in and it still doesn't work. I get the fan to fire but the compressor wont do shit. I checked the voltages and while I do have a sticky contactor it did pull in and gave me my 240 to the compressor. I did hear a little hum for about 3 seconds, every minute or two which seemed to be the compressor wanting to fire but not actually doing so. I don't think there is anything else I can test with my electrical knowledge and tools.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 8:40 pm 
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Urlacher's missing neck wrote:
Ive got one for you. My A/C has always kind of done a shitty job of keeping when I do use it which is not all that often. It works but it seems to take a while. Regardless....it worked. It no longer works. I have done some of the basic stuff. I gave it a rinse as it was pretty dirty, i checked and replaced the capacitor as the herm side was about 30 percent low. I have the new one in and it still doesn't work. I get the fan to fire but the compressor wont do shit. I checked the voltages and while I do have a sticky contactor it did pull in and gave me my 240 to the compressor. I did hear a little hum for about 3 seconds, every minute or two which seemed to be the compressor wanting to fire but not actually doing so. I don't think there is anything else I can test with my electrical knowledge and tools.

The compressor humming sounds like a bad capacitor. Since you replaced it, check your wiring to the capacitor, make sure you didn't switch Fan and herm. Then, check your physical wiring between the contactor, capacitor and the compressor

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:28 pm 
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So I went out to double check things. I swapped the fan and herm wires for the hell of it since the new capacitor has them on the opposite sides as the original. It actually fired the compressor that way for a a little bit. I could also pull the fan lead off the capacitor and it still ran the fan but at a way lower speed. There is some little blue thing that takes one of the herm leads and one common and then has a wire that enters and exits the blue thing by itself. Also when I test the contactor i have my 240 at the top but when its not sucked in i dont get 240 at the bottom but i do get 120 to each side somehow. The wiring sounds fucked up but its how its always been. I only changed the capacitor and took pics to ensure i put it back correctly.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:35 pm 
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Urlacher's missing neck wrote:
So I went out to double check things. I swapped the fan and herm wires for the hell of it since the new capacitor has them on the opposite sides as the original. It actually fired the compressor that way for a a little bit. I could also pull the fan lead off the capacitor and it still ran the fan but at a way lower speed. There is some little blue thing that takes one of the herm leads and one common and then has a wire that enters and exits the blue thing by itself. Also when I test the contactor i have my 240 at the top but when its not sucked in i dont get 240 at the bottom but i do get 120 to each side somehow. The wiring sounds fucked up but its how its always been. I only changed the capacitor and took pics to ensure i put it back correctly.

Ok so a little basic electricity...
When the contactor isn't pulled in you should have 240 on the line side. It must be a single pole contactor, meaning when it's not pulled I. There's 120 on one of the two legs. You'll get 120 on each side of the contactor on the load side to ground when it's not pulled in but 0 pole to pole on the load side. This is because the 120 passing the contactor on the shunt side is passing thru the common windings back to the other side of the contactor. It's the same phase, that's why you get 120 to G on each side but 0 across both terminals.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:43 pm 
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The contactor is working fine then. Does that 2x2 inch rounded blue box with the capacitor common, herm wire and internal loop wire ring a bell with you? This thing has to be 25 years old, a carrier and it claims to be "high effiency" in and era where I don't recall there being any true high efficiency.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 9:44 pm 
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Urlacher's missing neck wrote:
The contactor is working fine then. Does that 2x2 inch rounded blue box with the capacitor common, herm wire and internal loop wire ring a bell with you? This thing has to be 25 years old, a carrier and it claims to be "high effiency" in and era where I don't recall there being any true high efficiency.

You wanna take a picture of it and text it to me? Pm me if you want contact info.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2023 9:59 am 
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if you take a wood screw and drive it in at an angle where the contactor button is you can force the compressor on permanently.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2023 8:54 pm 
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Can someone explain to be how a 25' x 25' deck costs over $10k to just replace the boards and railings? I got four different quotes and one was actually for $30k!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 6:08 am 
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the contractors think youre a bitch

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 9:18 am 
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Crystal Lake Hoffy wrote:
Can someone explain to be how a 25' x 25' deck costs over $10k to just replace the boards and railings? I got four different quotes and one was actually for $30k!


Pressure treated? Composite? Cedar?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 2:17 pm 
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Pressure treated composite ceader decking. You just gave me a new billion dollar business idea. Thank you.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 2:23 pm 
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That is pretty damn expensive unless you are using that composite trex stuff which is not cheap.

I got the AC back up and running today. I was moving the bundle of wires going to the compressor just to make sure a mouse didn't eat through one and the next time i tried to run it I got a dead short. I didn't realize there was a tiny j box on the compressor and sure enough one of the wires had corroded and arced enough to break it free of its stake on terminal. Im going to have to re-do all those connections as they all looked like shit but only one broke loose.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2023 7:24 pm 
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I need to replace the hot surface igniter on my brothers furnace and the old one seems to have no part numbers on it. Are this pretty much universal or do I need to get specific with this? It resembles the one in the link below only it was hardwired instead of the connectors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Robertshaw-Hot-Surface-Ignitor-Series-41-407-41-407/300280479


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2023 7:35 pm 
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I have a broken brakes and just ordered all the parts can you come over and help me do all the work. I got a 4k of keystone we can share while I learn from you. I promise I will talk the entire time and ask a lot of questions.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2023 7:47 pm 
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stlmax wrote:
I need to replace the hot surface igniter on my brothers furnace and the old one seems to have no part numbers on it. Are this pretty much universal or do I need to get specific with this? It resembles the one in the link below only it was hardwired instead of the connectors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Robertshaw-Hot-Surface-Ignitor-Series-41-407-41-407/300280479

That ignitor should be able to be replaced with a glowfly. It's universal, cheap, and will last times as long as that one. It comes with like 5 different brackets and directions on how to do the bracket thing. That's your best bet.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2023 7:48 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
stlmax wrote:
I need to replace the hot surface igniter on my brothers furnace and the old one seems to have no part numbers on it. Are this pretty much universal or do I need to get specific with this? It resembles the one in the link below only it was hardwired instead of the connectors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Robertshaw-Hot-Surface-Ignitor-Series-41-407-41-407/300280479

That ignitor should be able to be replaced with a glowfly. It's universal, cheap, and will last times as long as that one. It comes with like 5 different brackets and directions on how to do the bracket thing. That's your best bet.

I have some if you're in my neck of the woods.
But grainger should have them.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2023 8:19 pm 
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Darkside wrote:
Darkside wrote:
stlmax wrote:
I need to replace the hot surface igniter on my brothers furnace and the old one seems to have no part numbers on it. Are this pretty much universal or do I need to get specific with this? It resembles the one in the link below only it was hardwired instead of the connectors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Robertshaw-Hot-Surface-Ignitor-Series-41-407-41-407/300280479

That ignitor should be able to be replaced with a glowfly. It's universal, cheap, and will last times as long as that one. It comes with like 5 different brackets and directions on how to do the bracket thing. That's your best bet.

I have some if you're in my neck of the woods.
But grainger should have them.



No sir I'm in St Louis. Ill grab them from grainger since I probably need the gas valve as well. Thanks for the help.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 11:25 am 
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This is on top of our hot water heater in WI. Is it a recirculating pump? If so should I bother plugging it in? I did read somewhere they should not be installed on top of the hot water heater yet here it is. Also I read using them can eventually cause pinholes in hot water pipes which I definitely don't want. So is it worth the trouble?

Is there anything else I should know?

BTW going tankless is presently not an option.

Thank you in advance,

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 11:28 am 
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Pump with a timer.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 12:29 pm 
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tune it to 670 Bernstein is on now


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2023 1:10 pm 
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Darkslide, I have an exhaust fan that wasn't running. The breaker was tripped. I reset the breaker and it's running ok now.

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