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pittmike
 Post subject: Water Heater Question
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 9:20 am 
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I have a question about the water heater situation at my kid's new home. The heating unit is only two years old and when the gas guy came to turn on gas and check everything all is working.

He turned off the water heater though and said it cannot be turned back on until an issue with the venting is fixed. He said the venting pipe above the water heater was getting too warm and there wasn't the correct draft.

The house was inspected and as far as we can tell the chimney and all other thing are fine. I have not heard of such a thing on the water heater exhaust before. Any one hear have a Darko level of insight?

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Douchebag
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 9:22 am 
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Go tankless

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Darkside
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:08 am 
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I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?

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pittmike
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:43 am 
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Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

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denisdman
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:46 am 
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pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.


brick wall, problem identified. Must be a stubborn water heater.

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pittmike
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 10:52 am 
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denisdman wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.


brick wall, problem identified. Must be a stubborn water heater.


yup

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Darkside
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 11:23 am 
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pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.

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pittmike
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 11:25 am 
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Darkside wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.


Thanks

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Ogie Oglethorpe
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 11:58 am 
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Darkside wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.

Where did you get the manometer?

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pittmike
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 12:00 pm 
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Ogie Oglethorpe wrote:
Darkside wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.

Where did you get the manometer?


Manhattan

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Darkside
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 12:15 pm 
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pittmike wrote:
Ogie Oglethorpe wrote:
Darkside wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.

Where did you get the manometer?


Manhattan

Isle of Mann.

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The Man
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 12:55 pm 
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pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
pittmike wrote:
Darkside wrote:
I'm assuming this is an atmospheric (natural draft, metal flue pipe)?


Yes standard gray pipe sitting atop the water heater that then goes up angles then into the brick wall/chimney structure.

The heat isn't a problem. It should be 350+ degree exhaust. The draft pressure is important though. Normally i drill a small hole in the flue pipe and use a draft gauge or a manometer to measure the draft pressure. Minimum should be 0.01 inches of water column pressure. If it doesn't do that there's yiur problem.


Thanks

If he can, go on the roof and pull the cap off to check for blockage. I had these tiny chimney swifts that managed to squeeze through the screen and nest in mine. My CO detectors never went off and was still venting I guess. My only sign was a tiny drip at the base of the flue pipe.

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denisdman
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2025 1:15 pm 
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Oh the irony of “The Man” chiming in amid all the Man jokes….

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