If I use that stuff now, can I still reseed this fall? Or should I use it now and reseed in the spring?

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I actually bought a small bottle of this from a guy whose videos I watch on YouTube (Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut). He showed how to mix it in a pump sprayer. I will probably do as you suggest and wait until spring to do that, while seeding/overseeding this fall.

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You got a problem with grass?

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Sex isn't dirty, sex isn't a crime. It's a loving act between two or more consenting adults.

-Hank Kingsley

I sprayed and reseeded. Seeds are coming up now. The nice thing about this stuff is that you dont need to saturate the soil. Just spray it on the blades of grass. Dont use too much.

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Mulli is Howard Stern in his prime compared to Haugh.

He's just pissed they mentioned killing some of it.

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2018
#ExtendLafleur
10 More Wins

You should be fine to seed in the fall.

Allyn has a great channel but it was better a number of years ago when he was in Indiana and had a cool-season lawn. Now he lives in Florida and while he still helps with cool-season lawns his hands-on stuff is warm-season. There are some FANTASTIC youtube resources for cool-season lawns. Ryan Knorr has a great channel but to be honest he has gotten a bit extreme for my tastes recently too, doing total lawn rehabs and stuff. I learn a lot from him but I'm not going to excavate, re-level and re-seed my whole lawn to make it perfect. I just want to work with what I have. You can go wrong following Allyn's cool-season lawn plan from about 5 years ago before he started pushing a lot of products and getting sponsored. He used to be more "down-to-earth", having a great lawn for cheap. Now he has an online store and his videos seems a bit commercial.

Cool, thanks for the information.

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Great, thank you.

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my guy, who I can understand 1 out of every 7 words he speaks or texts, charged me $100. But he charges me $100 for everything he does and half the time I don't even know what he's suggesting, but I just tell him to go ahead and do it cause that's easier than trying to understand him.

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So I ended up rototilling a large section of my lawn last year and planting new seed. Most of the grass survived the winter. I followed up last week with some overseeding in combination with lime and Scott's Step 1, which combines a fast-acting fertilizer with mesotrione to suppress weeds while allowing grass seed germination. Here's the product I used: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/lawn-fertilizers/7315799?store=05416&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpdqDBhCSARIsAEUJ0hMLBkiPxVxRDj_6kihvM0HW4shMLjxehJCivNmjhlD3OpwA2oCJs_AaAotoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

So far, the lawn is looking good.

I still need to buy a peat moss spreader so I can top dress my lawn without too much effort on a regular basis. Here's the spreader I'm looking at:https://landzie.com/product/landzie-compost-peat-moss-spreader/

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sounds like a Super Spreader

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'Your AT&T Universal Card has arrived'? Oh God, Kick-fucking-ass, I got a Master Card! I don't believe it, man. Life is kinda cool sometimes.

TM that sounds great, glad it is coming in so well. Have you done a soil test? The only reason I ask is that you need to be careful with the lime if you already have soil with a healthy to high PH. I am sure you are fine, I know lots of people who have applied lime. I personally have never felt the need to but that's just me.

I dumped a nice load of Milorganite about three weeks ago and things are really popping now. I spot sprayed for weeds last weekend and as of right now things look pretty good on that front. I took over my elderly neighbors lawn this year - the service he was using sucked and he was riddled with crabgrass and weeds last year. I have put more work and product into his yard than my own so far but its been fun. It is kind of a fun challenge. His neighbor on the other side has playfully been giving me shit about taking my show on the road and trying to dominate him now, telling me to go back to my yard where I belong, but I'm like "fuck that, you had better step your weak lawn game up, I'm coming for you."

Yeah, I did test my soil, which is somewhat acidic. I am really hoping to thicken up my lawn in the next month or so. I'm also going to rototill another section and completely reseed where weeds have taken over. The Northeast has a major problem with the invasive oriental bittersweet vine, and I've been battling against that, too, this spring. Thanks again for your advice.

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It's not enough that the Bears haven't beaten the Packers in three or four decades, but you want them Cheeze Heads shitting on your lawn, too?

I got one for 24$ and took care of the front yard just this past weekend. I am not paying 120 plus every time I need this done and I have no desire to haul the thing back and forth. Now I can cut plugs whenever I feel like it. I did spring for a can of silicon spray because the wisconsin clay like to jam up the core cutters.

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That's my purse! I don't know you!

the guy on our trustee board who does lawncare basically said that 95% of the yards aerated do not need it. unless you have heavy thatched grasses like bermuda, lots of clay soil, and have tons of foot traffic on it, you likely do not need your lawn aerated.

I find it is cheaper and easier to aerate once a year than it is to bag clippings and leaves, which in turn can cause thatch if left on the lawn without aerating.

EDIT: And in the chicago area for the most part soil is clay. https://www.americanfoundationrepair.co ... 20droughts.

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"I honestly don't see a good bet on the board here."

ok i can see why this guy won MM this year

I've done it myself (neighbor and I rented a machine) and now pay a service to do it.

The machine you rent is a wrestling match and takes an hour for an larger sized yard like mine. The machine they use is a rider gizmo and takes them 5 minutes to zip through the yard.

as to the services, I dumped Trugreen and Chemlawn. I went a small place out of Carol Stream and their results are astounding... This year the lawn looks fabulous with whatever they're doing. It used to be a weed farm. Now it's clean, freen grass as far as the eye can see. I can't keep up. I've now cut it 4 times. Last week the tractor had a tough time getting through it and then again yesterday it was working hard. It is thick, lush, weed free.

So yea, find the little guys. They have better portions of chemicals and actually spend time in your yard putting it down.

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Certified Dirty Old Man

The guy that showed up on Sunday finally at like 9:30am.

Man he sucked. He plowed the field...

Then went outside and gathered the dog shit, mowed the lawn, raked the landscape beds, spread the mulch, filled in the low spots, picked up the sticks, reseeded the 1/3rd acre estate, weeded, smoked weed...

fkn dude took forever. He's like a 45.8 year old with a bad back. It was like watching a turtle wash dishes for 5 hours.
He drank 4 of my beers and two of my zero sugar grape gatorades.

Today he's complaining about being sore and that "his back is killing him."

fuck this guy...

He was cheap tho.

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@audioidkid

The 10,000 square feet of my lawn closest to my house--where I rototilled last year and used Scotts Step 1 this spring while also overseeding--is looking great--thick, lush and almost entirely devoid of weeds.

I will be fertilizing again in a couple of weeks, probably with Milorganite, although I am also wondering if I should just go ahead and use Scotts Step 1 again since that provides pre-emergent weed control along with a good fertilizer. If I use Milorganite instead, should I spray with Prodiamine as well? Thoughts?

I recently purchased a landzie peat moss/compost spreader that should be delivered in June--I'm looking forward to using that when I do more overseeding in the lawn areas farther away from my house in the summer or fall.

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ever wonder how to economy is struggling when everyone is working to the max?

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the world will always the world. your entire existence is defined by your response.

Just saw this post - my impression of Scotts Step 1 is that it provides crabgrass control, not necessarily weed control. My neighbors yard historically has been overrun with crabgrass, so when I took it over this year i gave him an early-season hit of Step 1, and then 4 weeks later gave him a second hit, since I knew he had a crabgrass problem. If you traditionally have a crabgrass problem two hits of Step 1 is not a bad idea. On his yard i did the two doses of Scotts and have been bombarding it with Milorganite in between and the results have been shocking, especially since recent rains. I have also been spot-spraying weeds with Weed-Be-Gon with great success. If your yard has a lot of current weed problems and you already laid down Step 1 for crabgrass prevention, it might be a good idea to go to Step 2 to get a handle on the weeds before that gets out of control. If weeds aren't a huge issue, there is nothing wrong with a second shot of Step 1.

There is nothing stopping you from using Milo along with these products, Milo cant fuck up your yard. Prodiamine is fine to use as well, although the window is pretty much closing on pre-emergent weed control, most weeds are already rocking and rolling. It might be kind of late for that. If you have large swaths of weeds, use a blanket application of Step 2. If you have just intermittent weeds, I'd spot spray them and hammer away with Milo.

I just bought a new fertilizer online that I saw some stuff on YouTube about, so I rolled the dice and bought a bag of Yard Mastery Double Dark last week that has 6% iron and applied it last Friday before it rained Saturday and earlier this week. I am not familiar enough with this product to all-out endorse it as a full-time go-to fertilizer, but I cut my lawn last night and I couldn't BELIEVE how green and thick it was. I had it on the highest setting (4") and the mower was really working hard to get through it, it was unreal. It has never been so thick and dark green, no weeds are going to be growing in that anytime soon.

Oh, one last thing - don't forget Grub control, that can go down really anytime between now and say the second week of June for max protection. It keeps the grubs at bay and keeps the critters from digging them up. Nothing kills a yard faster than uncontrolled grubs feasting on your lawns roots.

Oh an one last thing about weed and feed - it is a great way to carpet bomb your weedy lawn and get rid of a lot of weeds quickly. Just remember it is critical when to apply it. You want to apply it when the yard is wet, so the granules can stick to the weeds and do the damage. Weed and feed doesn't do anything to kill weeds if the granules bounce off the weed and lay on the ground. It attacks the weeds through the foliage, not the roots. Apply when wet, AND the forecast is DRY. You want the product to stick on the weeds for as long as possible for the best results.

The milogranite is becoming hard to find though. A couple of guys on another forum love it and of course they're all scrambling to find it.

As I said, I have a service (NOT truegreen/Chemlawn or one of the other McD's of the lawn industry), this is what they put down on the first application of the season;

-Organic Based Fertilizer 25-0-5
*40%XCU 20% Biosolid/2fe, 2.8lbs applied per 1000 square feet
-Weed Control Liquid Application Escalade 2,Manufacturer Nufarm US
*.75 ounces per thousand square feet, ai%: 2,4-D - 39.53%, Fluroxypyr - 5.90%, Dicamba 4.10%

This yard, two years ago, was a weed farm. Nothing but creeping charlie, large broad leaf weeds, dandelion's, thistles, etc... Now, the only few weeds to be found are around the perimeter of the property where they don't get it as strong. I couldn't be more pleased. I can't cut it fast enough even with no rain (this weeks' rain has already had it explode even more...). Last week I had to cut, then cross-cut with the tractor, to break up the clumping of left over mulch.

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Certified Dirty Old Man

Correct about the MIlo being hard to find and also about twice the cost of what it was three years ago. I live close enough to the border where I can easily get it in Wisconsin at Menard's at a decent price, and they have a lot in stock. I usually buy a seasons worth at a time. Menard's in Illinois now are marketing a knock-off brand called "E-Corganite" which they advertise as the basically the same thing, but it definitely does not pack the same punch as the original, it has about half the iron content of Milorganite, so you dont get that green POP Milo gives you. It is cheap and easy to get however. That is why I decided to experiment with Lawn Mastery this year and order it online. Each 45 pound bag covers 15,000 square feet, so about 3 full loads on my 5,000 square foot lawn which isn't too bad at $60 a bag. I am going to continue experimenting with those products this year. It is very nice having fewer bags of fertilizer in the garage and having it delivered to my door.

My lawn looks great in some areas and not so great in others. I have a very large and very old tree in my front yard and the area between the sidewalk and the street is pretty bare due to the fact that it is always shady and likely the root system of the tree. My front yard has a couple splotchy dead spots on it but I am not sure the best way to attack it. There is another small section of the yard that I killed in my battle royale with Creeping Charlie. In past years it has mostly stayed in the plant beds but this year it has decided to migrate to my front lawn. I bought some nasty stuff that is supposed to stop it in it's tracks and kill it. I thought I was very carefully spraying the Charlie but I managed to get more of the surrounding grass than I thought. I have found that while it works well in the plant beds it is just easier to try to dig it out and make sure you get the entire root system. It's more work but more effective.

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Flew too close to the sun on wings of pastrami

Creeping charlie can be easily gotten rid of, and my approach is exactly what you said: rake it out as much as you can by the roots. Then spray the rest with Weed B Gon - Chickweed, Clover and Oxalis killer. Its the one with the purple label. That stuff is lawn safe when used properly and will kill any remaining creeping charlie. You dont need anything super potent to get rid of it, especially if you fuck its shit up by raking it out as much as possible first. I use that weed killer for all spot spraying in my yard and it works great. As far as dead spots go, we are kind of leaving the spring window of opportunity for renovating and seeding, its gonna get hot and dry soon. I would suggest attacking that in the fall, say mid September, by core aerating, seeding, fertilizing and watering. Until then, fertilize your yard with organic fertilizers and try to keep the soil fertile and moist with some regular irrigation in those areas so that surrounding areas of grass can spread. If the areas are really hard pan, you can maybe soften it up with a rototiller to help things along. Grass WANTS to spread, it is basically a weed itself so you may be surprised how quickly and easily it fills in with just a little help. And for the shady area under the tree, I used Kentucky Bluegrass in a similar area a couple years ago, it does well in shade, and it has filled in beautifully. Whether that matches the rest of the grass in your yard color-wise is another question. Again, seeding now is kind of late. A great fall project. That said seed is cheap so it cant hurt if you throw some down and commit to watering it.