A legend and a bad ass. He was the Babe Ruth of big wave riding. Brought surfing to Australia with the US Lifeguard Team in the 50s. One of the first to surf the North Shore and the first brave enough to take on Waimea. Even the locals thought he was crazy. Inspired the "50 Year Storm" surf scene in Point Break when he rode a 50 foot face at Makaha when 3 storms converged in the Pacific and he was the only one brave enough to paddle out. He was featured in the documentary "Riding Giants" which is one of the best docs ever made. Even if you aren't into surfing you should check out. I'd love to have one of those 12' guns mounted in my office.