15 years ago

It was probably 12 but I was expecting about 17K and the 20K didn't include some of the materials. We were all in at 13K for parts and labor.

sexual favors included

It's more fun to be a victim

There will never be an effective vaccine. I'll never get one anyway.

I've mainly installed Navien. I can tell you that their tech support and customer service is far and away the best of any manufacturer I've ever contacted. I won't bore you with stories but trust me they stand behind their product like no other company I've ever seen.

Maintenance... there's typically a water inlet screen to clean once a year. And descaling should be done once a year, that requires a submersible pump that runs cleaning agent and water thru the heat exchanger. You mix up the cleaner with 4 gallons of water into a 5 gallon bucket, the pump goes into that and the water pumps into the cold inlet side and out the hot back into the bucket. Let it circulate for 45 minutes. Then flush with fresh cold water. There should be bypass valves on the thing so you isolate the street inlet and the house hot outlet and you can just circulate thru the machine. You can probably buy the kit for the average price of a contractor to come out and do it twice so if you're in any way handy I'd say buy the pump kit. You'll clean the flame sensor and spark electrode while the system is flushing. It's an hour of maintenance once a year. There's also a fresh (combustion) air intake screen you should check and clean every couple years.

I hung my NPE 240 A2 on the wall today.

Many that is true, but an incomplete statement.

I have MANY years of experience in trying to appreciate steaming piles of dogshit.

It's more fun to be a victim

There will never be an effective vaccine. I'll never get one anyway.

The Wattage regulator has nothing to do with speed of fan or brightness of bulbs or for a remote. It is a safety feature that prevents the fan from overheating. If you install bulbs that exceed the specified wattage, the wattage regulator either shuts off the bulbs or limits the wattage they receive to prevent overheating.

I have MANY years of experience in trying to appreciate steaming piles of dogshit.

Got an issue with the ceiling fan in our living room. None of the lights will work. The fan works fine. I replaced all the bulbs and the lights still will not work. I read something about a wattage regulator that could be causing this. Does this mean I need to get lower watt bulbs and they will work? Does the regulator need to be replaced? Do I just need to get a new fan all together?

Because you are stupid, maybe read some books educate yourself.

We walk, talk, and won't shit our pants

Congrats! How's it going?

Are you stoned or pissed off, or both, when you create these postings?

Got an issue with the ceiling fan in our living room. None of the lights will work. The fan works fine. I replaced all the bulbs and the lights still will not work. I read something about a wattage regulator that could be causing this. Does this mean I need to get lower watt bulbs and they will work? Does the regulator need to be replaced? Do I just need to get a new fan all together?

Is there a remote control involved? I installed a new fan with a remote in our master bedroom, we already had separate switched for fan power and lights. Now there is a sequence that needs to be followed to make the lights work by the wall switch.

I am not a legal expert, how many times do I have to say it?

I had the same issue but just the opposite where the lights on my ceiling fan would not turn off. At first I thought it was the batteries in the remote, but then I learned that these fan/remote units sometimes will randomly unpair themselves. The way to fix it was killing the power to the fan at the electrical box, turning the power back on while at the same time holding the pair button on the remote control.

Why do these remote control ceiling fans not have some kind of backup on/off switch on them? Those little remotes are tiny and easy to lose.

Question: My 75-gal Bradford White water heater has performed perfectly for 15+ years, and I know it's probably on borrowed time. Would you recommend:

1. Replacing with the same model...after all, if I get another 15 years out of the new one, I'll probably be out of the house by then.
2. Replace with a Navien tankless
3. Replace with a Rinnai tankless

Move

I am not a legal expert, how many times do I have to say it?

Did the previous bulbs all quit working at once, or did you replace bulbs and they did not work after that? I would look for a wire not made up if the former is true. Fans vibrate and wire nuts loosen in the box/fan base.

If the latter is the case, obviously it is a problem with the new bulb you chose.

Is there a remote control involved? I installed a new fan with a remote in our master bedroom, we already had separate switched for fan power and lights. Now there is a sequence that needs to be followed to make the lights work by the wall switch.

I have MANY years of experience in trying to appreciate steaming piles of dogshit.

The way to fix it was killing the power to the fan at the electrical box, turning the power back on while at the same time holding the pair button on the remote control.

It's more fun to be a victim

There will never be an effective vaccine. I'll never get one anyway.

All bulbs quit working at once.

No remote.

I think I am going to just replace the entire fan/light.

All bulbs quit working at once.

No remote.

I think I am going to just replace the entire fan/light.

if you were going to re-do an entire bathroom basically- like new floor, new vanity/faucet/sink, toilet, etc what should you start with first ? the floor ? it's pretty small, i think all i'd need is like 10 tiles

i'm pretty confident i could do the vanity and all that but i've never done a floor before

Because you are stupid, maybe read some books educate yourself.

We walk, talk, and won't shit our pants

Floor then trim then fixtures then paint.

Tiling is pretty easy if you’re doing something large. Just make sure your subfloor is solid and if you’re using concrete board, that all the screws are countersunk.

Floor then trim then fixtures then paint.

Tiling is pretty easy if you’re doing something large. Just make sure your subfloor is solid and if you’re using concrete board, that all the screws are countersunk.

If you’re removing all of the fixtures, it’s easier to paint while the walls are fully exposed so that you can use a roller for most of it and also get behind the toilet and vanity. That also eliminates concerns with paint drips on a new floor or countertop. You may need to touch-up if you damage the finish while reinstalling but it shouldn’t be much.

If you’re removing all of the fixtures, it’s easier to paint while the walls are fully exposed so that you can use a roller for most of it and also get behind the toilet and vanity. That also eliminates concerns with paint drips on a new floor or countertop. You may need to touch-up if you damage the finish while reinstalling but it shouldn’t be much.

can you just come and do this shit for me ? i'll smoke you up

It's more fun to be a victim

There will never be an effective vaccine. I'll never get one anyway.

if you were going to re-do an entire bathroom basically- like new floor, new vanity/faucet/sink, toilet, etc what should you start with first ? the floor ? it's pretty small, i think all i'd need is like 10 tiles

i'm pretty confident i could do the vanity and all that but i've never done a floor before